France 1993

France 1993

By 1993 I had a newer VW Camper, it was better equipped and I had surfing a lot. The previous year I had done a trip out to New Zealand surfing at Raglan and Piha and stopping on Oahu, Hawaii on the way home. I was very excited about this trip to France as it was the...
The Perfect Day

The Perfect Day

It is that time of year again when we are all hoping for some good autumal swells and it has got me thinking about memorable swells from my past. It was the Autumn of 1986 and everyone had been talking about this swell to come for a few days. I was in the Sixth Form...