Posts Tagged ‘Hugo’

Learning to Surf by Hugo

I feel like I’m free. I’m riding the tide.

The waves chasing me to the shore.

Arms out, knees bent, water dripping down from my head.

It’s gone dark now. I’m being tumbled and rolled by these wild wet panthers,

I can hear the distant sound of voices, clashing stones and the roar of water.

So that’s a wipeout. I love it.

I can feel myself grinning, I love it.

Again! Again!

I am paddling out in search of the next powerful wave, frothing at me like a dog with rabies.

This is great. Thanks Chris